手工皂洗髮成美事 – 初次使用手工皂洗髮必讀

有不少用家在使用洗髮皂的時候遇見困難。 當你決定使用天然個人用品開始,總帶著些希望,例如問題得到解決,頭髮變得好看等等。但為何用了之後得不到預期的效果,更不用說有多好了。環保天然的是否不夠好呢?

有見及此就寫一編文章講講”手工皂洗髮成美事”。

我們分4個部份,洗髮手工皂的運作原理、洗髮要有的果效,手工皂洗髮過程,正確清洗步驟,了解自身需要

用洗髮皂我的頭油笠笠,發生甚麼事呢?

初時使用手工洗髮皂,會出現所謂“適應期”或叫“好轉反應”的情況,其實這是“皂垢”作怪。

怎麼會出現皂垢?

手工皂是一種天然負離子活性界面劑,遇上“重金屬”的陽離子就會像磁石般結在一起,變得黏稠油笠笠。要糾正一些錯誤的理論說:“手工皂在水的中性、微酸性環境變回脂肪酸”–>是不正確的,要皂變回脂肪酸,除了要有強酸之外,還要相當長的時間,所以不會在洗頭過程中明顯發生。

你有這些情況嗎?這些會使皂垢變得明顯:
– 長期使用巿售洗頭水、護髮素;
– 在使用手工洗頭皂的同時使用巿售護髮素
– 有染髮、直髮
– 使用化學護髮產品
– 家裡的水硬度高(地區因素或水管老化);

這太難受了,怎樣可以舒服些?

改善洗頭方式
選擇“低垢配方”的洗髮皂或使用“過渡期洗頭水”。

洗髮手工皂的運作原理

無論是固體手工皂還是液體手工皂,都屬於負離子表面活性劑,而成份是天然的。
皂(脂肪酸離子) -融化於水中呈鹼性。
micelle-皂集中成球狀。球內部會吸取油污,將油溶化於水中。
鈣離子-也稱為硬度成分,和皂結合後會變成”皂垢”(金屬皂)。
皂垢-幾乎不溶於水。皂與鈣的結合力非常強,結合後幾乎無法分解。
水素離子-存於水中。酸性水(如檸檬酸等)中含量高。
脂肪酸-皂接觸到酸性或中性的水時,皂會與水素離子結合。成為不容易溶水的油狀物質,這就是脂肪酸。皮脂中大多含有此生體成份,它能使皮膚呈弱酸性。

使用洗髮皂洗頭的各個階段
1. 洗髮時
洗髮時,因為洗髮皂為弱鹼性,所以頭髮的毛鱗片會打開。
洗髮泡泡中含有大量的皂,能清除頭髮中的污垢。
這時皂垢只出現一點點。
脂肪酸為油狀物質,難溶於水,會附著於頭髮的表面上。

2.沖水時
使用自來水沖水時,皂被稀釋,失去洗淨能力。
而自來水中的鈣離子則與會與皂結合,逐漸形成皂垢。
皂垢難溶於水,於是吸附在頭髮表面。
而原本附著在頭髮上的脂肪酸,也與鈣離子結合而變成皂垢。

3.沖水完畢時
頭髮整個被皂垢附著。
這就是為何洗髮皂洗完頭之後,會覺得澀澀的原因。

這時,如果不使用酸性物質潤絲,就直接吹乾頭髮的話,
皂垢會卡在毛鱗片內部,變成如頭皮屑般的白色粉末。
更因為皂垢毫無保濕能力,所以造成頭髮摸起來卡卡的。

4.檸檬酸潤絲
洗髮皂洗頭後,必須使用檸檬酸或醋的酸性潤絲。
因為酸性潤絲能關上頭髮的毛鱗片,並將頭髮表面的一部份皂垢轉變為脂肪酸。
(只是,皂垢的結合力實在太強了,所以皂垢無法全數變為脂肪酸)

5,檸檬酸潤絲的錯誤使用法
常有人認為[檸檬酸潤絲能夠分解皂垢],
而在頭髮沒沖乾淨的情況下就使用檸檬酸,這是錯誤的觀念。

在沖洗時,如果沒將頭髮上的皂先沖乾淨,就直接檸檬酸潤絲的話,
殘留在頭髮上的皂則會全數變為脂肪酸,而強力的吸附於頭髮上。

這就是為何有些人明明有使用檸檬酸潤絲,
而頭髮卻變得無比黏膩的原因。

從上列的洗髮皂洗頭的化學來判斷,
正確的洗髮皂使用法應該如下。

1,暖水預洗,將頭髮上的汗與污垢盡量的沖掉
先用清水將頭髮洗過,
這樣可維持洗髮皂的洗淨力,
並避免酸引起多餘的脂肪酸。

2.使用適量洗髮皂,迅速洗髮
洗髮皂的鹼性會使毛鱗片打開,
這時頭髮較易受損,所以洗髮要迅速準確。

另外,盡量先讓皂起泡,使用泡沫洗髮。
因為頭髮要避免互相搓揉,
如果是液體洗髮皂,可以利用起泡瓶。
(液體洗髮皂,容易使用過量。要注意。)
清潔後應盡量將多餘泡沫撥走,能盡量避免沖水時脂肪酸形成皂垢

3.沖水時,使用蓮蓬頭配合較熱的水,從髮根往髮尾一鼓作氣沖洗
沖洗時會出現大量的皂垢,
所以要在短時間內一鼓作氣沖乾淨。
從髮根往髮尾的方向沖洗。

4.別忘了檸檬酸潤絲
檸檬酸潤絲必須在頭髮完全沖洗乾淨之後使用。

如果已經潤絲完畢,這時,就算花再久的時間,也無法將皂垢轉變為脂肪酸。
不如在開始潤絲時,慢慢並確實的將檸檬酸潤絲倒於每吋頭髮上,
這樣可幫助離子的交換,效果也會必較好。

另外,需注意別讓頭髮長時間處於酸性物質中,可能會傷害頭髮。

5.有染髮或頭髮受損者
有染燙髮的人,頭髮表面大多有受損情況。
這樣的髮質再使用洗髮皂之後,會感覺頭髮質感會更差。

最好在潤絲中加點甘油等保濕劑。
於頭髮乾燥後,再擦上點油質保護。

洗髮皂與軟水
洗髮皂洗頭後質感不佳,大多是因為皂垢引起的。
而皂垢的產生原因和量,則和自來水的硬度成份有關。
例如住在東京的人,到札幌旅行時,會覺得皂的起泡度非常好。
而住在仙台的人,一到沖繩,則會覺得洗頭皂超級難用。

所以,當在留言板上看到對洗髮皂的建議或使用感時,
不妨確認一下對方居住區的水質軟硬度。
因為,水質的軟硬度會影響一塊皂的洗感。

在軟水區使用洗髮皂的人,
常會驚艷於洗髮皂的洗後感。
會感覺[好得不像自己的頭髮][感覺像是去給美容院洗頭一般]。
那麼,為何軟水能使洗後感這麼好呢?
1.使用軟水沖洗時
因為軟水中不含鈣離子,所以沖水時不會形成皂垢。
所以也比較容易將頭髮上的皂沖洗乾淨。
沖洗後,頭髮表面則會吸附上薄薄的脂肪酸。

2.洗髮後
因為頭髮表面覆蓋了薄薄的脂肪酸。
鹼性皂幾乎不殘留於頭髮上,
而脂肪酸為弱酸性,所以毛鱗片會自然的蓋上。

另外,脂肪酸為皮脂中所含的天然油狀物質,
能讓頭髮鬆軟並有光澤。
所以呢,住在軟水區的人,洗髮皂洗頭也不需要使用檸檬酸潤絲。

曾問過住於軟水區的人[你們洗髮後需要用檸檬酸潤絲嗎?] 而他們的回答是,如果頭髮有因染燙而受損的話,會使用加了甘油等保濕劑的潤絲。
但其他人頭髮健康的人,則覺得沒有檸檬酸潤絲的需要。

手工皂洗髮成美事 – 初次使用手工皂洗髮必讀 有 “ 8,273 則評論 ”

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